Spray Foam Insulation in McKinney, TX

Spray Foam Insulation goes on as a liquid, expands in seconds and bonds to the wood, block or steel it touches. That bond is the point: it insulates and stops air movement at the same time, which loose batts and blown fiber cannot do on their own. In a McKinney house, that matters most on the underside of the roof deck, around bonus rooms and garage ceilings, in the open walls of an addition, and under raised floors. It also matters in steel shops, where foam stops condensation on cold metal.

Open cell

Open-cell foam is soft and light, rated by HomeGuide at R-3.5 to R-3.7 per inch. It expands a great deal, fills odd-shaped rafter bays and costs less per inch, so it is the usual pick when we move the insulation line up to the roof deck. It also deadens sound in interior walls and floors. It lets some water vapor pass, so it is not what we put where moisture is the main concern.

Closed cell

Closed-cell foam is rigid and heavy, R-5 to R-7 per inch in HomeGuide's figures, and at normal thickness it acts as a vapor retarder and shrugs off incidental water. It packs more R-value into shallow framing, stiffens the surface it is sprayed on, and sticks to metal. We use it on garage ceilings below bonus rooms, under raised floors, on rim areas and on steel buildings.

When foam is the wrong answer

Foam is not automatically the upgrade. If your attic is vented, the ducts are short, and the trouble is mainly thin or uneven insulation, sealing the ceiling and blowing in more loose-fill can deliver most of the comfort for a fraction of the price. We tell you that when it is true, and we price both.

Before we spray

We look for roof leaks, soft decking, disconnected ducts and gas appliances that draw combustion air from the attic. Those get dealt with before foam goes on, not after. McKinney's residential inspection paperwork includes a spray foam letter about the ignition barrier, so we also plan where exposed foam needs a coating or covering.