Frequently Asked Questions

It depends on where your HVAC equipment and ducts are. With equipment in the attic, foam on the roof deck usually helps more; with a simple vented attic and short ducts, sealing the ceiling and blowing in a deeper layer is often the better buy. We price both when both fit.

HomeGuide's national range is $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot installed, with whole houses at $8,000 to $20,000. Roof shape, foam type and thickness drive your number, and the written estimate after our visit is your price.

Open-cavity spray foam needs the drywall off, so in finished walls we usually wait for a remodel or addition. Closed walls can sometimes be filled another way, and we will tell you what fits your house.

Collin County is in Climate Zone 3A. The 2015 Texas minimum calls for R-38 in ceilings, and the 2021 IECC base table calls for R-49. We measure what you have and quote the depth to reach your target.

Yes, for foam. HomeGuide advises staying out at least 24 hours while it cures, and we schedule around that. Blown-in work does not require you to leave.

Oncor's Home Energy Efficiency Program pays incentives through approved participating providers, not directly to homeowners, and its page says 2026 funds are used up. We will tell you at the estimate whether any program applies.

Foam on a roof deck or in walls is a permanent part of the house, so buyers and inspectors will ask what was installed and whether the attic was sealed correctly. A written record of the product, thickness and ignition barrier answers those questions.

Open-cell is lighter, cheaper and better at filling irregular spaces, at about R-3.5 to R-3.7 per inch. Closed-cell is dense, R-5 to R-7 per inch, and slows vapor. We use each where its strengths matter.

It depends on the foam and the R-value target for the house. The quote lists the planned inches and resulting R-value for each area so nothing is left vague.

Exposed foam generally needs an ignition or thermal barrier unless the product is tested for that use. McKinney's inspection paperwork includes a spray foam letter covering this, and we plan for it up front.

HomeGuide's guidance is to stay out at least 24 hours while foam cures. We schedule the job around that and let you know when the house is ready.

Usually yes, as long as the existing insulation is dry and clean. If it is wet, moldy or full of debris, it should come out first, and we will tell you which case you are in.

It stops attic air from leaking into the house and house air from leaking out through the ceiling. Rooms tend to even out in temperature and the insulation can do its job.

R-38 is the 2015 Texas minimum for Zone 3 ceilings and R-49 is the 2021 IECC base-table figure. Many homeowners aim for at least R-38; we quote the depth for whatever target you choose.

Only fixtures rated for insulation contact can be covered directly. Older cans may need to be swapped or boxed in before insulation goes around them.

Standard spray foam needs open cavities. Closed walls can sometimes be dense-packed or injected through small holes, depending on how they are built. We check before recommending it.

Closed-cell packs more R-value into a shallow cavity, while open-cell costs less and dampens sound. The choice depends on your plan's R-value target and budget.

For permitted additions and remodels, the insulation is normally inspected before it is covered. We leave the walls ready for that.

Fix the attic first in most McKinney houses. Walls make the most sense when they are already open for another reason.

For most vented crawl spaces, closed-cell foam on the subfloor is simpler and does the job. Sealing the whole space makes sense when moisture is a constant problem. We price what fits.

Batts under a floor often get heavy with moisture, lose their supports or get pulled down by animals. Foam bonds to the subfloor and does not sag.

Yes. Sealing and insulating the underside of the floor cuts drafts and cold coming up from the crawl space.

No. Slab houses do not have a crawl space, so attic and wall work are where the gains are.

Warm, moist inside air hits cold steel and condenses. Closed-cell foam sprayed directly on the metal stops the air from reaching the cold surface.

Closed-cell is the usual choice on steel because it seals tightly to the metal and slows vapor. Open-cell is better suited to wood-framed shops.

Usually, if there is room to work along the walls. We cover or move items near the spray area and plan the job around what stays.

That depends on the city or county and the scope of work. Ask your city's building department; we can tell you what we have seen required locally.

If the old insulation is dry and clean, yes. If it is wet, moldy or contaminated, it should come out first.

Some older loose-fill can contain asbestos. That needs testing and, if positive, a licensed abatement contractor, not ordinary removal.

Most attic removals take a day or less, depending on size and access. Reinsulating may be the same day or the next.

That depends on your policy and the cause. We can give you a written estimate and photos for your claim.

Very little reaches the living areas. The material travels through a sealed hose to a bag or truck outside, and we cover the path to the attic access before we start.